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When compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee familiar high-end names. However, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The honour has made the owners completely astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” states the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest shop securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary achievement.